This is a bucket list race that only 150 runners are allowed to run each year. The race sold out in 8 minutes this year but my husband, his Uncle Steve, friend Sharon and I all made it in. Normally you are only allowed into the canyon on a tour or with a Navajo guide so to be allowed to run here independent of that is truly a privilege.
I will spare you the details of the beauty discovered in the canyon with words but instead let you discover the beauty in pictures.
Canyon de Chelly from a lookout point
Our weekend accommodations were at The Thunderbird Lodge where after check-in we were greeted at our doors by some local rez dogs. This lodge is within walking distance to the pre-race meeting the night before and a little bit longer walk to the race start. We opted to drive to the race start however.
The Thunderbird Lodge – Trading Post
Our official greeters at the Thunderbird Lodge!
By all means you should attend the pre-race meeting. It is a spiritual, emotional, educational and entertaining event in and of itself and should not be missed. The Race Director Shaun Martin tells some personal stories that not only inspired us but had everyone tearing up. He also educated us with some history of the canyon while his Father-In-Law provided some comic relief.
Race Director Shaun Martin and his Father-In-Law at the pre-race meeting
The handmade finishers awards proudly displayed at the pre-race meeting
The race was set to start at sunrise which is a Navajo tradition to greet the new day. A ceremonial fire was blazing which would stay lit until the last runner crossed the finish line. This fire also helped keep us warm as it was in the low 40’s. After a touching prayer and blessing ceremony we were our way.
The race runs through the base of the canyon which in a dry year has ankle deep sand at some points. This was a dry year! The positive part of it being a dry year is the limited water crossings. I had heard that in past years there were water crossings in the double digits. This year there was one water crossing that you needed to be very creative to avoid and another that was very easily avoided.
The race starts and ends in deep sand
Easily avoidable water crossing
In a wet year many of these dry crossings could have been knee deep with water
This is an out and back course with a 1200 foot 1 mile climb up Bat Canyon to the turnaround point. Initially while preparing for this event I was concerned by the cutoff time assigned for the turnaround point of 5 hours. I thought running through deep sand and stopping to take pictures and soak in the beauty would add to the stress of making the time constraints but up until the base of Bat Canyon my time was better than expected. I checked my watch and saw that I had over an hour to make it to the top. Feeling a little confidence creep in at that point I thought this would be no problem. Boy was I wrong! That confidence was soon replaced by “I hope I can make the cut off!” My legs and my lungs were on fire. I could not take my eyes off the trail while trying to move for fear of tripping on either the large or small rocks that populated the trail. Climbing several minutes with my head down and using my hands for balance and support and then stopping to see how far I had gone was repeated over and over again with always the same thought. “I have made no progress at all.” Runners started coming back down and needed to pass and would always offer words of encouragement “you’re almost there” or “good job” or “looking good”. I could not see the turn around and I’m sure I was not looking good.
The climb up Bat Canyon
View from the top of Bat Canyon
Working my way down the scary part of the Bat Canyon climb
I should mention that I have developed a fear of heights over the years and if I did not look directly down I was doing ok. That is until the very top of the climb where it seemed you needed to be a mountain goat to scale it. The trail seemed to disappear and it was more like rock climbing than running or hiking. Several volunteers stood at the top looking down and logging in the runners. Also perched at the top of this climb was Dakota Jones. Dakota Jones is a very talented ultra runner that volunteered to be the course sweeper and was waiting at the top for the last runner to escort back down and to the finish line. I was pretty panicked and almost immobilized by fear at this point. I kept thinking once I make it up how in the world am I going to climb back down this? I told Dakota that I knew this was going to be hard but didn’t realize how scary it would be and asked him how others made it up. I was sure I needed to climb directly up to him. He however pointed me in a different direction and said most of the others went that way. Of course, there was the trail and a much easier route to the top. I was so focused on those right in front of me and my fear that I did not see the correct route. I was very happy to have made it to the turnaround point with only a few minutes to spare. I grabbed some snacks and sat to empty the sand out of my shoes. A volunteer offered me a small hand broom to brush the sand off my feet which was a tremendous help. My husband made it to the top and after a few minutes we were ready to head back down. I was truly relieved when I discovered it was not as difficult to go down that portion has it had been to go up. As my fear dissipated I was able to relax and enjoy the views which were breathtaking.
After reaching the bottom of Bat Canyon my husband I and soon separated and I found myself all alone. If the sand was deep on the way out it seemed even deeper on the way back. After 6+ hours on the course it was beginning to weigh on me. My legs were tired and I could feel blisters that the sand in my shoes continued to irritate. I tried to keep my mind off that by appreciating my surroundings and thinking of the words of Shaun Martin the night before. I thanked Father Sky and Mother Earth and felt so connected to this place. It seemed that every time I felt like I was overheating Father Sky provided a nice breeze to cool me off. This did not go unnoticed by me and it made me smile and laugh. It was probably the last 1-2 hours or so of my race that the winds really picked up and I thought it was a sign from Father Sky that it was time to wrap it up and leave the canyon and I could not have agreed more, I was ready to reach the finish.
Spider Rock
Beauty all around me
Sun and clear blue skies made the day perfect!
A little shade was welcomed and the sand was not so deep
The views keep your mind occupied
A not so ancient petroglyph?
Just as I started with the sunrise I was now finishing with the sunset. A different perspective on the canyon and a deep appreciation for all it represents. I could see the finish line off in the distance and it seemed like an eternity to get there. Trying to stay on firm ground was harder on the way back since so many had ran before me which made the journey to the finish line harder but even more rewarding. At some point during the day I was thinking I could not imagine coming back and putting myself through this again as many others do. After the pain of the day subsided however I realize that this race, this canyon and the people are forever etched in my soul and I know that someday I will return.
The sun setting beyond the finish line
Making my way to the finish line
A long day comes to a close
Steve was the oldest runner to complete the race and was presented with a handmade silver and turquoise bracelet!
Steve’s bracelet!